| welding kayak split polythene broken canoe |
 |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
| Repairing a split kayak. |
Oh well, split happens. This is a big one, about
250mm long.
250mm long.
The first thing I do is drill a hole at each end of the split.
This helps spread the load and prevent the split from
worsening. (I used a 6mm in this case).
This helps spread the load and prevent the split from
worsening. (I used a 6mm in this case).
Using a sharp knife trim the split and creating a 45
degree chamfer on each side. This creates a clean
surface to weld to and a nice channel for the molten
plastic to sit in.
degree chamfer on each side. This creates a clean
surface to weld to and a nice channel for the molten
plastic to sit in.
I trim a chamfer around the hole I just drilled as well.
This is top secret, so don't tell anyone about it. Wilf's
Welder has a world wide patent applied for and I am
seriously going to take you to the cleaners if you try to
copy my idea.
Welder has a world wide patent applied for and I am
seriously going to take you to the cleaners if you try to
copy my idea.
The next bit is when the fun begins. Make sure the plastic strips you have are not too thickly cut (5-8mm is good)
and get them and the boat nice and warm with either a hair drier or hot air gun. Both need to be warmed through,
not just warm at the surface.
and get them and the boat nice and warm with either a hair drier or hot air gun. Both need to be warmed through,
not just warm at the surface.
Light the blow torch and off we go!
The trick here is to get the surface of the boat and the
welding strip to melt at the same time.
I find it easier to push the molten polymer into the
channel using the patented "scrap and smear"
technique. Place the hot spoon on the welding strip,
as it softens, push it into the channel and blend it into
the boat. This technique does create a splodgy mess
on either side of the weld, but that is easily sorted.
The trick here is to get the surface of the boat and the
welding strip to melt at the same time.
I find it easier to push the molten polymer into the
channel using the patented "scrap and smear"
technique. Place the hot spoon on the welding strip,
as it softens, push it into the channel and blend it into
the boat. This technique does create a splodgy mess
on either side of the weld, but that is easily sorted.
Repeat the process on
the inside if possible.
the inside if possible.
Excess polymer is easily trimmed off with a sharp
knife, as the polythene does not like sticking to a
surface that has not been cleaned first.
That's why we cut some away from the split initially.
knife, as the polythene does not like sticking to a
surface that has not been cleaned first.
That's why we cut some away from the split initially.
Then repeat on the
inside of the boat.
How hard can it be?
inside of the boat.
How hard can it be?
There it is, the
finished weld.
Go on, have a go, it's
not like you are
going to make it any
more broken than it
already is are you?
Oh... In case you
were wondering, I
don't use a naked
flame for welding as
I find the carbonising
that results can
produce an inferior
quality weld and it
reduces the risk of
over heating the
plastic.
finished weld.
Go on, have a go, it's
not like you are
going to make it any
more broken than it
already is are you?
Oh... In case you
were wondering, I
don't use a naked
flame for welding as
I find the carbonising
that results can
produce an inferior
quality weld and it
reduces the risk of
over heating the
plastic.
There is more than one way to weld a boat back together. This is my way. |
I like to scrape backwards to get a really flat finish
before I give a final rub down with some abrasive paper.
before I give a final rub down with some abrasive paper.
I use a chisel to pare off the unwanted polymer where it
has stuck to the boat. Mind your fingers!
has stuck to the boat. Mind your fingers!
You can also use this technique for repairing petex bases on skis and snowboards