| Outfitting My Novacraft Prospector 16' |
Adding the lashing points
I used quality 5mm Para Cord and Polythene Tubing with an internal dia. of 5mm.
The cord came from a military supplier and the tubing from my local tool and hardware store.
The cord came from a military supplier and the tubing from my local tool and hardware store.
To help speed up the
threading process, I stitched
a 3mm dia piece of
equipment cord onto the
end of the para cord.
This helped significantly
when getting the para cord
through the poly tube.
threading process, I stitched
a 3mm dia piece of
equipment cord onto the
end of the para cord.
This helped significantly
when getting the para cord
through the poly tube.
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Phase 4: Designing and Fitting the Kneeling Thwart (KT)
I decided I wanted a kneeling thwart (KT) that was quick release
(QR). There seems to be quite a bit of discussion how to do
this. However, I knew that although I wanted to be able to
release the thwart in the event of a mishap, I also wanted to be
able to apply pressure with my heels when boating.
I cut all the pieces and checked the assembly before varnishing.
(QR). There seems to be quite a bit of discussion how to do
this. However, I knew that although I wanted to be able to
release the thwart in the event of a mishap, I also wanted to be
able to apply pressure with my heels when boating.
I cut all the pieces and checked the assembly before varnishing.
Using Ash, I cut the hangers.
Unlike conventional systems, my KT will rest on a protruding Ash shelf that is bolted
through the hanger to the gunnell.
Unlike conventional systems, my KT will rest on a protruding Ash shelf that is bolted
through the hanger to the gunnell.
The actual thwart will
rest on the shelf, and
be held in place by a
quick release strap
using a standard 25
mm QR buckle. ( The
same as on chest
harnesses only
smaller)
rest on the shelf, and
be held in place by a
quick release strap
using a standard 25
mm QR buckle. ( The
same as on chest
harnesses only
smaller)
I guess the first thing was to decide where to put it in
relation to the yoke.
I spent a fair amount of time trying different positions
and in the end I found the right place for me was 17"
behind the yoke. I believe this to be a very personal
thing and lots of factors need to be considered when
choosing where to position the KT.
I drilled the holes, a 4mm one all the way through the
gunnell and a 10mm just through the top section.
relation to the yoke.
I spent a fair amount of time trying different positions
and in the end I found the right place for me was 17"
behind the yoke. I believe this to be a very personal
thing and lots of factors need to be considered when
choosing where to position the KT.
I drilled the holes, a 4mm one all the way through the
gunnell and a 10mm just through the top section.
The 10mm hole is for the spacer to drop
into. The spacer prevents the gunnel from
crushing when the bolts are tightened.
into. The spacer prevents the gunnel from
crushing when the bolts are tightened.
So here it is, varnished and assembled. Sat in the garage, it
seems to work fine and I like the fact it is so simple.
I am considering a Mk II already, but the simplicity of this
system seems a winner.
seems to work fine and I like the fact it is so simple.
I am considering a Mk II already, but the simplicity of this
system seems a winner.
I cut the nylon webbing with a hot knife and
screwed through the hole in the buckle, through
the nylon and into the ash.
screwed through the hole in the buckle, through
the nylon and into the ash.
Right: MK II early design. Still using a strap and QR buckle,
this arrangement would prevent the thwart from sliding but
allow release rearward in the event of a mishap.
this arrangement would prevent the thwart from sliding but
allow release rearward in the event of a mishap.
